In our first of a trio of winter walking features, it’s time to warm the cockles… as well as the mussels, prawns and crab… and tuck into a piping hot seafood chowder
It’s cooling down out there. You may have noticed the loss of feeling you now get in your fingers when you try and sunbathe. And heading on a walk seems to demand an additional layer each time you go out, especially if you have a biting northerly slapping your face as you gaze out to sea.
But fear not, as this month is the first of three where we turn the chill into something brill by offering you a trio of bracing wanders, taking you to somewhere fantastic before treating you to something warm, lovely and oh so coastal – this issue, it’s the seafood chowder.
Chowder is a rich seafood soup. The term was coined in the United States from the French word chaudière. Closer to home, cafes and restaurants create variants of the same theme. They might call it a seafood cawl or soup, but it’ll always mean a bowl of something piping hot and delicious – a perfect way to conclude a winter’s walk.
Our first route is in Menai Bridge in southern Anglesey. This is a stroll, really, but one that incorporates the Menai Suspension Bridge – both crossing the structure and walking underneath it gives you two perspectives of this fabulous piece of architecture. You can also venture across a causeway onto Church Island.
When all is done, Dylan’s Restaurant (tel: 01248 716714; dylansrestaurant.co.uk) can warm the hands (and the tummy!) with a yummy chowder featuring – among other ingredients – salmon, king prawns and clams.
Our second walk starts in Aberystwyth, from where you head south along the River Ystwyth before climbing a small hill called Pen Dinas where there are 360-degree views and an ancient fort. There’s likely to be a stiff breeze too, so head down to Pysgoty restaurant (tel: 01970 624611; pysgoty.co.uk) who may well have a steaming bowl of fish cawl on the menu.
Finally we head to the Pembrokeshire town of Narberth. From here we take a walk through the woods to the impressive Blackpool Mill. On your return, pop into Madtom Seafood Cafe Bar (tel: 01834 860506) whose Mediterranean Fish Soup is served with aioli and homemade bread.
Of course, menus change all the time so if you have your heart set on a chowder. make sure you call ahead. And even if it’s not available that day, you’ll still find seafood aplenty at these top-notch eateries.
ROUTE 1 A round-the-town stroll in Anglesey's Menai Bridge then a heavenly chowder at Dylan’s
ROUTE 2 A small climb above Aberystwyth followed by seafood cawl at Pysgoty
ROUTE 3 A woodland wander by the Pembrokeshire town of Narberth, then soupy seafood splendour at Madtom’s
Route inaccessible? If you find that any of the routes featured on walesandborders.com has become inaccessible in any way, do let us know so we can alert the necessary authorities on your behalf. You can email the Web Editor at email@example.com
For the full feature on winter warmers (part one), see the December 2019 issue of Welsh Coastal Life. For back issues, click here.
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